Between Pub and Plate: Modern British Food at Carnaby, Singapore

Every country has an iconic dish that becomes its calling card.

For Singapore, it’s chicken rice, and the misplaced “Singapore noodles.” For Britain, it’s fish and chips, maybe a Sunday roast.

Singapore prides itself on global representation, yet British cuisine still feels curiously lacking, despite the sizeable British community here.

So when Carnaby promises “British classics, done right,” it sounds straightforward enough. That, at least, catches my attention.

With my friends, I make my way to the diner in the heart of Robertson Quay for lunch.

Inside, the space feels warm and unfussy. White subway tiles line the walls, dark wood tables fill the room, and the open kitchen sits just behind the bar. British vinyl covers add character without overwhelming the space.

Carnaby is a restaurant at heart, shaped by the warmth and sociability of a British pub.

We’re given a brief introduction to Carnaby by Anne Nunag, the restaurant manager, with her warm and effusive smiles. The hospitality is evident. So is the presence of its founder.

Adam Penney, founder and chef, moves through the space as though it were an extension of himself. Behind the bar, into the kitchen, then out among the tables. He is attentive and warm.

“Our approach isn’t about novelty,” he says simply. “It’s about taking familiar British comfort food and doing it properly. The uniqueness, if any, comes from restraint.”

For him, that means classic pub dishes like fish and chips, burgers, Sunday roast and traditional puddings, prepared with care and lifted just enough, but not reworked beyond recognition.

We’re given drinks and starters to begin with.

From left to right: Royal Rumble, Shanky Panky, London Calling

A favourite quickly emerged: the Royal Rumble ($21). Cloudy apple forms its base, rounded out by warming spices that linger in a way that feels faintly festive. It’s crisp on the first sip, then softens into something fuller. The three of us kept returning to it, though the other two went down just as smoothly.

The house-cured salmon follows, dressed with mandarin crème fraîche. Refreshing and addictive, it sets the tone before the heavier mains.

As the drinks settle in, the space shifts slightly. Conversations grow louder, glasses clink. Another group joins the room, their accents unmistakably British.

Adam later tells me that while Carnaby is first and foremost a restaurant, it fully embraces the spirit of the British pub.

“In Britain, the pub isn’t just a bar,” he says. “It’s a social institution; a place where people gather, celebrate, debate, unwind, and connect. Great food, good pints, and good company belong together.”

It feels distinct from the pub culture many are used to in Singapore, which can sometimes revolve around dating or social optics.

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Next come the mains.

If Carnaby’s philosophy is about doing the classics properly, the beer-battered hake is the benchmark.

It’s my first time trying hake in fish and chips. Often used in British chippies alongside cod and haddock, it’s a softer, more delicate white fish than the barramundi I’m used to in Australia. It flakes easily beneath the crisp batter, giving the whole dish a lighter, less dense feel than what I would typically expect.

Ordinarily, I hate peas. But these puréed peas carry a surprising sweetness I’m not used to, and one I actually enjoy. The tartare sauce, flecked with dill, is rounded and balanced, without the overly-aggressive tartness you sometimes get.

I baptise the fish with charred lemon and malt vinegar, letting the sharp acidity cut cleanly through the beer batter. Paired with the tartare sauce, it all comes together beautifully.

Spritzes of malt vinegar!

Next come the meaty heavyweights: a ribeye steak and the Carnaby Burger Aged Patty. The ribeye is well-charred and served medium well, with a good sear and tender centre.

The burger quickly becomes our favourite. Medium rare, juicy, and balanced by sweet caramelised onions, it is the one we keep returning to. Just a good, old-fashioned juicy burger, done right.

At one point, I ask Adam about a chilli sauce that accompanies one of the dishes. It’s bright, refreshing and unexpectedly zesty.

It began as a pineapple sauce, he tells me, before he turned to watermelon, reworking an overlooked part of the fruit into something vibrant. It certainly paid off. It’s such a quirky, inventive touch, and one that stayed with me well after the session.

We ease into desserts next, with the sticky toffee pudding emerging as our favourite. It’s easy to see why it remains their signature dessert.

Sticky Toffee Pudding - incredibly texture and taste, with slight sweetness

The sticky toffee pudding is incredibly textural, soft and warm, the sponge slightly sticky at the edges. The butterscotch seeps through without making it soggy. Sweet, yes, but restrained enough that you keep going back for another spoonful.

We leave stuffed after all that glorious food. It keeps me full well past dinner, no small feat for a lunch sitting.

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British food is often reduced to fish and chips. Carnaby reminds you it can be more than that. Not flashy. Not showy. It simply executes the classics properly.

“We want guests to leave surprised... in the best way,” Adam says. After lunch here, that feels entirely possible.

Location: Carnaby, 60 Robertson Quay, #01-01, Singapore 238252

Carnaby hosted this tasting. All views expressed are my own.

For those planning to walk: Ongoing construction in the area means it’s not the most direct route. From Clarke Quay or Fort Canning, it’s about a 10-minute walk before you reach the door.