Tiong Bahru Market Food Guide: An OG’s take on the best hawker stalls

Before the swanky cafes and exorbitant HDB prices plagued the neighbourhood (*cough* gentrification *cough*), Tiong Bahru was defined by the epicentre that is Tiong Bahru Market. 

Built in 1951, the market was built to serve the rapidly growing community at Tiong Bahru, many of whom had relocated from Chinatown. The market boasts many hard-to-come by local eats that have solidified themselves as heritage eats in my memory and that of many others. 

Weaving through the first level, you’re greeted with all the delights of a local market. Fresh fish, local eggs and fresh flower shops are just some of the shops you can find here in Tiong Bahru Market.

One of the more unique stalls is a fresh ground coffee shop. Don’t worry, you’ll smell it before you see it. The stall owner was in the process of grinding up one of the many specialty blends for the elderly customer.

Now onto the second floor, the food market. Coming up the escalator, I’m greeted by the jazzy tunes of elderly buskers singing Cantonese classics and started my clockwise scout of my next eat.

Jian Bo Shui Kueh

It is technically still breakfast so my first stop is for a timeless classic, chwee kueh ($3.80). We all know that the less graphics and frills on a stall’s signboard, the more OG it is (I’ve been patronising this particular stall for over 20 years, so yes, it’s been around for at least THAT long).  

Upon ordering, the auntie skilfully de-pots the soft bouncy kueh from its signature aluminium tin. Just like a congo line, she passes on the kueh to a younger chap who plops on the sweet and savoury preserved radish, colloquially known as cai poh (more is more here!). Together this small dish packs a punch that will have you ready to con-kueh the day!

Hwa Yuen Porridge

Now, let’s move onto our heavy hitters. Looking back, it’s slightly odd that a five-year-old would be obsessed with congee... but that child was me, and not much has changed since.

Hwa Yuen serves up traditional congee from basic flavours like chicken and fish to rare delicacies like the raw salmon congee. We ordered the Century Egg and Chicken Porridge ($5.50). Thick and creamy congee served up with finely shredded chicken and decadent pieces of century eggs. For the ultimate pairing, find a fried snack shop and get a piece of youtiao to dip into the thick congee for that crispy touch.

Extra serving of scallions for that bright profile

Koh Brother Pig’s Organ Soup 

So cool to see the whole family working together!

Next up is my parent’s favourite, Pig Organ Soup ($5.50). I get it, I too was turned off by but hear me out. Lean pork slices and innards swimming in an earthy clear broth that has been stewing for hours. From a skeptic like me, if no one would have told me that I was eating innards, I would be pigging out. The innards were well cleaned and didn’t have that porky or bloody aftertaste you’d think the worst of when it comes to organs. 

A more unique item on their menu is the Glutinous Rice Sausage ($3.50). Soft pork belly and crunchy chestnuts enveloped by sticky glutinous rice. A must-try dipped in the ooey gooey dark soy sauce for the sweetness to cut through the dense flavours and textures. This labour of love is now a rare gem in Singapore due to the sheer amount of labour that goes into making it. 

If you need a little more convincing to give this traditional dish a try, Koh Brother Pig’s Organ Soup is Singapore's first pig’s organ soup that was awarded The Michelin Bib Gourmand. So you’ve got to at least give it a try and who knows? Maybe you’ll fall in love.

Fried Oyster, Oyster Omelette, Chee Cheong Fun 

Last but not least, a sharing dish. As I was walking around the market distracted by the sights, sounds and hunger pangs, I heard an “Eh Uncle is open today!” from my dad. Turns out, this elusive Fried Oyster Omelette ($6) stall is only open as and when the uncle feels like it. So seeing this store open can only be described as a humpback whale sighting, at least in the eyes of my dad. 

And sure enough, it did not disappoint. The eggs have a perfectly crispy edge with a slightly chewy centre thanks to the tapioca starch together with the burst of freshness and slight saltiness from the oyster. The perfect sharing dish if you’re able to find this elusive stall open during your visit (you might want to buy 4D when that happens).

Pro-tip: Check out the unique small business on the first floor! 

Besides the obviously fresh produce that you’ll find on the first floor, take a walk down the back lanes of the market to find some unique stores. 

Along the innermost lane, you’ll find shops that sell antique homewares, collectibles and nostalgic memorabilia. If you’re looking for a new centrepiece for your house or just a little something to remind you of this visit, there is a trinket out there calling for you to bring it home!

Lots may have changed about Tiong Bahru as a neighbourhood, but like a time capsule that always serves as a reminder into our roots, Tiong Bahru Market has managed to stand the test of time. As it continues to attract more and more people, I hope it serves as a reminder of the ever vibrant and longstanding foodie culture we have in Singapore.

📍Location: Tiong Bahru Market, 3 Seng Poh Road, Singapore 168898 Singapore