[See ya] Laters, baby: A fiery carbonara and a fencer's dream in Greenwood

First, a quiz: What do you get when a fencer opens an eatery?

A sharp menu!

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We’d heard whispers of fire, cheese wheels, and a surprise performance... all along the quiet stretch of Greenwood Avenue, near the famous Greenwood Fish Market, which was already on our radar.

But we were especially excited to visit Laters Restaurant after hearing about its fiery pasta experience: the Flambé Carbonara ($28), a dish that had been making waves in foodie circles. Beyond the fire, Laters offers a menu rooted in bold Asian-Western fusion, balancing local comfort with creativity.

Curious, we reached out to Henry Koh, the founder of the restaurant. His story was unexpected. Known more for blades than béchamel, Henry runs one of the largest fencing schools in Singapore. So how did he end up opening a restaurant?

“I just thought, why not?” he said, smiling, as he welcomed guests himself that evening.

Turns out, the space was previously occupied by another eatery. When the opportunity arose, Henry took it: not for himself, but to honour his mother’s dream of opening up an eatery. A gentle tribute to family, passion, and good food, it’s the kind of origin story that makes the meal taste even better <3

I invited two of my close friends to join me for what promised to be a fun culinary adventure.

As for that Flambé Carbonara? It’s not quite the drama of Lala Claypot, but it’s still a show.

Each time someone orders a Flambé Carbonara, they bring out this trolley!

Chef deep in concentration!

First, the chef carves flakes from a hollowed-out 24-month aged Parmesan cheese wheel, then lights alcohol in a ladle and pours it in... igniting a brief flame. The dish features champignon mushrooms and cubed bacon, adding layers of earthiness and salty crunch.

It’s a fiery burst that vanishes in seconds but leaves the pasta rich, creamy, and kissed with smoke.

The Flambé Carbonara looks cool... but how does it taste??

The sauce is rich and creamy, carrying a slight nutty depth from the aged Parmesan cheese wheel. The bacon delivers a satisfying salty kick, while the flambéed alcohol adds a subtle, smoky warmth that made us all widen our eyes in surprise!

I’ve never had pasta with alcohol prepared quite like this (well, unless you count vongole), and it gave the dish a fun, unexpected edge.

We didn’t stop at just one dish. Other standouts from the menu included:

• Unagi Risotto ($28): This was hands-down our group’s favourite. Beautifully seasoned with a perfectly cooked texture, and honestly, a huge portion of unagi.

• Foie Gras Snow ($22): A unique take on foie gras, with finely grated “frozen” foie gras delicately piled over a soft toast. It looked beautiful on the plate, and you’ll want to eat it quickly before it melts away. While the presentation impressed, we found ourselves wishing for a stronger punch of flavour.

• Salmon Kueh Pie Tee: A creative spin on the local classic. Instead of crunchy radish, it's filled with fresh salmon cubes. Light, flavourful, and a fun little bite.

• Salmon Laksa Capellini: A playful fusion of laksa flavours and Italian pasta. Somehow, it works!

  
  

One thing that really stood out across the dishes? The freshness... and the incredibly generous portions of seafood. Whether it was the unagi in the risotto or the plump salmon in the kueh pie tee, each dish felt indulgent without being overdone. It’s clear the kitchen doesn’t skimp on quality or quantity, and seafood lovers will definitely appreciate that.

And just when we thought the night couldn’t get better, it did. Every week, the restaurant features live music, and we happened to visit on a Monday when Henry himself took the stage, alongside his brother and a few close friends.

What followed was an impromptu jam session that felt more like a house party than a formal gig. Warm, raw, and joyfully unfiltered (with full-on belting vocals and guitar riffs!)... the kind of thing you can’t plan for, but always remember.

Henry Koh (left), performing with his guitarist

Okay, so does one get there? It's not the easiest spot to reach without the Blue Line, but with Tan Kah Kee Station nearby now, the journey’s much simpler, and well worth it.

Family, food, music, and a little bit of fire... Laters somehow brings it all together. Between the flaming carbonara, the massive unagi risotto, and Henry belting it out on stage, it’s a mix you don’t come across often.

That’s what makes it such a unique find, at least to me :)

See ya laters, baby: 24 Greenwood Ave, Singapore 289221